Comic · Cambridge University Press

Regulating Transnational Sustainability Regimes

"Through their labels and logos competing for the interest of consumers, voluntary sustainability standards (VSS) are a visible feature in supermarkets and shops. With a few exceptions such as the European Union (EU) Ecolabel and some national equivalents, most of these schemes are set up by private actors such as nongovernmental organisations (NGOs), producer organisations and even single corporations establishing social and environmental requirements for their suppliers. The emergence of VSS is traditionally associated with the establishment of the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI) and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), and the rise of transnational civil society movements pressuring apparel brands over the labour conditions of their suppliers. The difficulty in reaching global agreement between States in remedying the 'tragedy of the commons', in particular depletion of natural resources and transboundary pollution, in combination with the jurisdictional limits of unilateral conduct, has led private actors to intervene in the regulation of social and environmental externalities connected to global production. The need to protect a reputation from scandal and NGO pressure, and to avoid liability and comply with applicable provisions, as well as creating new markets, have been equally strong contributing factors. Since the early 1990s the proliferation of schemes in sectors spanning agriculture to fisheries, and biofuels to jewellery has been unstoppable. From bird-friendly coffee production to acceptable working conditions in the garment sector, very few sustainability and corporate responsibility-related issues are not addressed by private standards. The most comprehensive database identifies 463 standards operating in 199 countries and in 25 sectors.4 Most of these standards are private, and the focus of this book will be limited to those"--